Circassian culture · Clothing

Traditional Circassian clothing: a visual guide

The cherkeska and its gazyrs, the papakha, the belt and the kama, and the long gold-trimmed women’s dress: what each piece is called in Kabardian and Adyghe, and what it was for.

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With 19th-century pictures and the words from two dictionaries.

A Circassian man in a cherkeska with gazyrs and a shashka, beside a woman in a long red dress embroidered with gold
“Circassians”, from a Russian series of prints, “Peoples of the Caucasus”.Russian chromolithograph, late 19th century. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Updated October 7, 2026 · 7 min read

Few outfits are as recognisable as traditional Circassian clothing: the long, fitted coat with rows of cartridge pockets across the chest, the sheepskin papakha, the narrow belt with a dagger in front, and, for women, a floor-length dress trimmed with gold. This guide explains each piece, what it was for, and what it is called in Kabardian and Adyghe.

The history comes from Wikipedia’s articles on Circassian and Caucasian dress, and the Circassian words from the app’s own lessons and two dictionaries. Sources are listed at the end.

цейthe Circassian word for the cherkeska
about 8gazyrs on each side of the chest
28 SeptAdyghe Costume Day in Adygea

The cherkeska: the Circassian coat

The word cherkeska is Russian: the coat was named after the Circassians, and every people of the Caucasus has its own word for it. In Kabardian it is цей and in Adyghe цые. The Kabardian dictionary gives цей two meanings, the coat itself and the homespun woollen cloth it was made of.

The cherkeska is a single-breasted coat without a collar, open in a deep V at the chest to show the beshmet, the close-fitting undercoat worn beneath it. It is fitted at the waist, reaches just below the knee and is always worn fastened and belted. Young warriors wore wide, short sleeves that left the arms free in a fight; only old men had long sleeves to keep their hands warm.

Colour once showed rank. Everyday coats were black, brown or grey; in Kabarda a white cherkeska, like a white papakha or burka, was reserved for the nobility. Wikipedia’s article on the Adyghe gives the full scale: white for princes (пщы), red for the nobles called уэркъ, and grey, brown or black for everyone else. In the 19th and early 20th centuries a boy got his first cherkeska at around ten to twelve, a sign that he was growing into a man.

A Circassian man in a cherkeska with rows of gazyrs and a white papakha, photographed by Pascal Sébah in the 19th century
A Circassian in a cherkeska with gazyrs and a white sheepskin papakha, 19th century.Photo: Pascal Sébah, 19th century. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The coat in its modern form took shape by the 16th and 17th centuries, and Kabarda set the style that neighbours copied. Terek and Kuban Cossacks adopted the whole outfit, gazyrs included.

Gazyrs: the cartridge pockets

The rows of tubes across the chest are gazyrs. The word comes from Turkish hazır, “ready”, and the Kabardian хьэзыр explains it: “ready cartridges”. Each tube, usually of bone, held a measured charge of gunpowder and a bullet cast for the owner’s own gun, so he could reload a flintlock at full gallop. The outermost pockets, almost under the arms, held dry kindling for a fire, and later percussion caps.

In the 18th century gazyrs were carried in leather pouches; only later were the pockets sewn onto the coat itself. It was customary to have about eight on each side of the chest. Today they are decorative, and the Kabardian dictionary has a word for that too: the second meaning of хьэзыр is the bone tubes that imitate cartridges.

Papakha, bashlyk and burka

The papakha is the tall sheepskin hat, often made of karakul. In Kabardian a hat is пыIэ, in Adyghe паIо, and the dictionary has бухъар пыIэ for a karakul hat. Among the mountain peoples of the Caucasus a man’s hat was a large part of who he was, and in 1855 the Russian army made the papakha part of the Cossack uniform.

A grey sheepskin papakha with a red top in a museum case in Vienna, labelled as a papakha for Circassians
A sheepskin papakha labelled “for Circassians” in the Museum of Military History, Vienna.Photo: Andreas Fahnenstich, 2022. CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

The bashlyk is a pointed hood with long tails that wrap round the neck, worn over the hat in winter: бащлъыкъ or щхьэрыхъуэн in Kabardian, шъхьарыхъон in Adyghe. The burka is a sleeveless felt cloak worn by men across the Caucasus: щIакIуэ in Kabardian, кIакIо in Adyghe.

The belt, the kama and the shashka

The cherkeska was always belted with a narrow leather belt, бгырыпх in both dialects. Its buckle doubled as a fire steel for striking sparks, and a Kabardian man’s belt carried silver plates. The kama dagger, къамэ, was worn in front, and it was as much a part of the costume as the shashka, сэшхуэ. Their hilts and sheaths were decorated with blackened (niello) silver, and the shashka’s scabbard with galloon and gold embroidery, work that young women did.

A 19th-century Circassian warrior’s leather belt with red leather pouches and a steel multi-tool, in the Royal Armoury in Stockholm
A Circassian warrior’s belt with pouches and a steel multi-tool, 19th century, Royal Armoury, Stockholm.Photo: Jenny Bergensten, Livrustkammaren (Royal Armoury, Stockholm), inv. 18716. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Below the coat, men wore leggings, лъей, of thin leather with silver buckles, and soft morocco shoes, chuviaks. Even the bow and quiver counted as part of a rider’s dress. For the blades themselves, read the Circassian shashka and kama.

60-second lesson

Five Circassian clothing words

The coat, the hat and the shoes: here is what they are called. Tap a word to hear it in Kabardian (East) and Adyghe (West), then take the quiz: the app’s own question, five rounds.

Circassian coat (cherkeska)Kabardian: цейAdyghe: цые
hatKabardian: пыIэAdyghe: паIо
shoesKabardian: вакъэAdyghe: цуакъэ
ringKabardian: IэлъынAdyghe: Iэлъын
threadKabardian: IуданэAdyghe: Iудан

The quiz needs JavaScript.

All the clothing words, in both dialects, with example sentences: Clothes in Circassian. In the app they are in the “Clothing” unit (Section 5, Daily Life).

Women’s traditional dress

Women’s clothing was varied and richly decorated, and like men’s it showed rank. The main garment was a long dress, open at the chest, бостей in Kabardian. Festive dresses were sewn from bought silk, velvet or taffeta, in white, red, black or brown rather than bright mixed colours. Their edges were trimmed with galloon woven from gold and silver thread, the hem and sleeves were embroidered in gold, and long pendants embroidered with gold hung from the sleeves.

A Circassian woman in a blue jacket with gold clasps and a long yellow skirt, a colour plate from Edmund Spencer’s 1855 book
A Circassian woman, a colour plate from Edmund Spencer’s book of 1855.Edmund Spencer, Turkey, Russia, the Black Sea, and Circassia, 1855. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Over or instead of the dress came a short kaftan with a closed chest, a dense row of silver clasps and a standing collar. Kabardian women wore belts and breastplates of silver and gold, a cap embroidered with gold and soft morocco shoes. Girls wore a leather corset from puberty until their wedding.

A Bzhedug Circassian woman’s cap covered in gold embroidery with long gold tassels, early 20th century
A Bzhedug woman’s gold-embroidered cap, early 20th century, from the Russian Museum of Ethnography.Photo: Alexander Sigachev, 2025. CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Circassian clothing words in Kabardian and Adyghe

East and West say many of these differently. Words with a play button come from the app’s lessons, with the app’s audio.

Meaning
MeaningKabardianAdyghe
the cherkeska (Circassian coat)
цейtsey
цыеtsəye
hat
пыIэpy'e
паIоpa'o
bashlyk (hood)
бащлъыкъ
шъхьарыхъон
burka (felt cloak)
щIакIуэ
кIакIо
belt
бгырыпхbgyrypkh
бгырыпхbgərəpkh
dagger (kama)
къамэ
къамэ
sword
джатэdzhate
чатэchate
shoes
вакъэvaqe
цуакъэtswaqe
shirt
джанэdzhane
джанэjane
wool
цыtsy
цыtsə

Circassian clothing today

The cherkeska has long since left everyday life, but it remains the outfit for celebrations, and only some families still own a full costume and wear it on holidays. Adygea marks the Day of the national Adyghe (Circassian) costume every year on 28 September, the birthday of the designer Yuri Stash, who did much to make the costume known; 2026 was the 15th time.

In the app

The fighters in the Circassian app’s Sword Duel and Archery Duel are dressed this way: a karakul papakha, gazyrs with silver caps, a leather belt with silver plates and a kama at the waist. The app also has four short Habze lessons on traditional dress, and two lessons of clothing words in each dialect.

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Learn the language behind the clothes

Short lessons in Kabardian or Adyghe, Habze lessons on Circassian traditions, and duels fought in cherkeskas.

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Circassian clothing: frequently asked questions

What is the traditional Circassian coat called?

In Russian and English it is the cherkeska, named after the Circassians. In Kabardian it is цей, which also means homespun woollen cloth, and in Adyghe цые.

What are the pockets on a cherkeska for?

They are gazyrs: tubes that held a measured charge of gunpowder and a bullet, so a rider could reload his gun at full gallop. Today they are decorative.

How many gazyrs does a cherkeska have?

It was customary to have about eight gazyrs on each side of the chest.

What do Circassian women traditionally wear?

A long dress open at the chest, of silk or velvet for festive wear, trimmed with gold and silver galloon and gold embroidery, with a short kaftan, a belt and breastplate of silver or gold, and a gold-embroidered cap.

What does a white cherkeska mean?

In Kabarda a white cherkeska, like a white papakha or burka, was reserved for the nobility; everyday coats were black, brown or grey.

When is Adyghe Costume Day?

Adygea celebrates the Day of the national Adyghe (Circassian) costume on 28 September.

Sources

  1. Wikipedia (Russian), “Cherkeska”, “Adyghe people” (section “Clothing”) and “Kabardians”.
  2. Wikipedia, “Chokha”, “Gazyr”, “Papakha” and “Bashlyk”.
  3. M.L. Apazhev, Dzh.N. Kokov, Kabardino-cherkessko-russky slovar (Kabardino-Cherkess–Russian Dictionary), Nalchik: Elbrus, 2008: цей p. 555, хьэзыр p. 536, бащлъыкъ p. 34, бухъар пыIэ p. 51, щIакIуэ p. 608, къамэ p. 221, сэшхуэ p. 400, лъей p. 308, бостей p. 50, уэркъ p. 445, пщы p. 379.
  4. Adyghe dictionary, dovlet.info: шъхьарыхъон, кIакIо, къамэ. Everyday words in both dialects: the Circassian app’s lessons.
  5. RuNews24, on the Day of the national Adyghe costume, 28 September 2026.
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